Bosideng London - Quality worth having?

I hadn’t heard of this brand until I came to…. London.  It’s not from London, but actually a Chinese brand that is famous for selling down jackets.  In China its considered a low-mid range brand, somewhere above Gap/H&M/Zara but below Banana Republic/ J. Crew. 

 

Bosideng London@ 28 South Molton St.

The owner decided to move upmarket, and thus spend 35 million to buy and renovate a pub in the central London into a beautiful store.  With its flat iron shape (similar to the flat iron in New York), with red panels along the side, it really is quite amazing architecture, and done quite well.  I noticed it all the time when I passed by, but really didn’t know what it was.

Then the reviews came.  GQ mentioned this brand had hired a couple of UK hot shot designers to and create a new line for the UK.  This would not be similar to the ones sold in China, but a much more upscale type- think Prada but without the price tag.  And you know what?  Surprisingly they have succeeded.  The traditional British overcoats made of tweed are finely woven, and the jackets look quite amazing.  The main centerpiece highlighted by GQ though, was this down jacket with rabbit fur trim  Made with down and an outer shell with buttons that looked like a military coat, it could be worn casually or with a suit, providing the ultimate flexibility, all going for 300-350 GBP.

So I went to the store thinking that I would only take a look.  Turns out I quite liked it- the style was good, and with down it was very light.  It also happened to be the ONLY one left in my size (they had done a run of 50 for each size), so I promptly took it, thinking that if I ever needed to return it I would have 14 days to do so for store credit.  But I never did. 

The jacket I got & recommended by GQ

After a season I can say the coat was warm, and it was extremely flexible and looks great with a suit.  I actually got a lot of compliments from people and who wondered where to buy it.  They had not heard of the brand either, but the cut and details were what they notice as it is really more like a coat that cost 2-3 times more.  Some may say it’s a Chinese brand, but you are forgetting that British designers created the collection, and no expense was spared in creating this quality item.

I don’t know if the quality will continue- I think the point was to build the brand, or perhaps provide a higher end version for Chinese customers who visit the UK, but certainly I’ve been pleasantly surprised by Bosideng London. 

Automobili Lamborghini vs Tonino Lamborghini- What's the difference?

The car maker Automobi

I was back in Hong Kong and noticed when walking there were several different Lamborghini stores in the same mall, and both right next to each other.. A bit confused, I decided to investigate a bit further.  I was at a high end supermall, so I'm sure that one wasn't just an imitation/counterfeit store, but the logos and products sold were also slightly different... what gives?

Automobili travel soft bag

Turns it both of them are actually part of Lamborghini.  The founder of the sports car firm that bears his name is Ferruccio (pronounced "fer ROO chee oh") Lamborghini, who started out building tractors.  His passion for cars led him to buy many nice cars, including Mercedes, Jaguar, & Ferrari.  The story started that the clutch of his Ferrari had some problems, and Ferrucio (at this point one of the wealthiest men in Italy due to his tractor & other businesses) went to the Ferrari founder Enzo Ferrari to complain.  Either Enzo told him to go away or refused to see him, and Ferrucio saw that he could replace the clutch with one of his tractor parts.  After that Lamborghini cars were born.  Today, its known as Automobili Lamborghini S.p.A.

What about the brand Tonino Lamborghini?  That comes from Ferruccio's son, Antonio "Tonino" Lamborghini, who started a clothing line with the same name in Japan.  It has now expanded to watches, leather goods, eyewear, even energy drinks!  Recently, the other "official" Lamborghini has been threatening legal action against Globe Tattoo for creating a USB stick that bears the Lamborghini name.  Apparently they used the official Lambo logo without notifying either of the Lamborghinis.  Globe does make the phones for Tonino Lamborghini s.r.l., but as a result they had to pull the USB sticks because of the issue.  Tonino Lamborghini is officially known as Tonino Lamborghini s.r.l. (lamborghini.it).

If you're getting a Lambo Laptop, get this one

So while you may not be able to buy the cars just yet, you can have a bit of Lambo by getting other products from either Automobili Lamborghini or Tonino Lamborghini.  There's even Lambo laptops (Asus makes a slim one for Tonino, but you should get the Lambo shaped one from Automobili) if you so desire.  Personally, I think Tonino's designs for clothing and bags are much better, and with the overseas manufacturing (designed in Italy, made somewhere else), it keeps the costs low.  I can vouch for the quality, as I've had a leather jacket from them as well as belts and other leather goods and they have held up fabulously.

Loro Piana Storm System (and brands that use it)

Storm System Logo inside Jacket

In the winter, there's always a tradeoff between wearing wool or a puffer down jacket.  You can look elegant in a wool coat, but when the elements hit (cold, wind, and rain) you'll ruin your coat.   Wearing that puffy down jacket will keep you warm, but it hardly looks good.

Enter the Loro Piana Storm System (or LP SS).  If you haven't heard of Loro Piana, they are one of the world's top brands, positioned up there with Hermes, LV, and Gucci.  Slightly less well known, but their fabrics are top-notch.  The Storm System technology allows wool and cashmere to be treated with a water repellent material so that water just rolls off the fabric, and the internal membrane blocks wind from getting through the jacket but allows body heat and sweat to pass through so you don't get too hot when you go inside, making it the perfect travel jacket. 

Brooks Brothers with LP SS

So what if you can't afford a Loro Piana Jacket?  It is, very, very expensive, but one of those things built to last, so you can always look for sales either at outlets or after the winter season, though they might not have your size.  (Never get a coat because it just happens to be on sale, it has to fit you and be the right one, otherwise you'll wear it once and then not wear it again...)

North Face Down Parka

My preferred way is to get the fabric through other brand names.  Many top designers use the Storm System fabric, and you might like their designs more than the traditional Loro Piana cuts.  Paul & Shark is one of my favorite brands, and the jacket I have with LP Storm System is just fantastic.  Still not cheap (~$800- $1200 range, but that's 1/3 the price of a typical LP SS Coat), and what you get is top quality (LP keeps its brand equity by only allowing expensive items to say they use LP material) that will last a lifetime.


Brands that have used Loro Piana Storm System (not exhaustive- if you know of others please comment): 

LP Anytime Cashmere SS Jacket

Alfred Dunhill
Barbour
Brioni
Brooks Brothers
Canada Goose 
Cardinal of Canada
Faconnable
Giorgio Armani
Hickey Freeman
Hugo Boss
Joseph Abboud
Loro Piana (obviously)
Luigi Bianchi Mantova
Paul & Shark
Peter Millar
Turnbull & Asser

The Barbour Sapper Jacket

Hello there! With the raining season of April apparently not over in May, I've decided to talk a trusty companion that I have had last year and have been wearing for this season to battle the spring elements.  I got this last year after reading a GQ article on it.  In the midst of the "great recession" spending wisely was very important.  I debated an hour or so in the Barbour store in New York with a friend before ultimately deciding to get it.  It ended up being one of the best purchases I've ever made.  I'll give some examples of why a bit later:

Barbour Flyweight Wax Sapper (shown in olive, and the one I recommend- actual jacket pictures below)

Link to view jacket at official Barbour site

You can read the fancy GQ profile on it, of how the jacket was designed for the trenches during WWII and the engineers wearing it who dug the tunnels were called "saps", and how there is a hidden hood or corduroy neck and cuffs that absorb the rain.  However I'll give you two real world examples in the modern day of how good this jacket is:

Had just finished showering (hair still wet and all), and I decided to go outside to get something from the grocery store.  I grabbed the Barbour jacket and headed downstairs.  I was downstairs in my apartment lobby when I saw that it was raining heavily outside.  Instead of going back to get an umbrella I figured I would just zip up my jacket and go- hey good time to test how waterproof it is right?   It was late at night and pitch black, but I could see from the headlights of the cars that were driving by on the busy streets in New York.

I could see the pouring rain as the headlights illuminated the street, yet I didn't feel a thing!  Not a thing.  I knew it was raining on me, but it was quite surreal as I could see but not feel anything.

Water did not seep in through the sides so I I wasn't wet at all, and I guess my hair was wet and nothing was getting into my face as the rain came at a slight angle, so I just didn't notice.

What really came as a shock was that a minute later I see my roommate coming back with a huge umbrella over him.  You know, those super large ones they use for golfing.   I ask him "Why do you have an umbrella?"  He looks at me blankly and says "Uh, its pouring rain."  Oh right, it is raining, I just don't feel a thing.

The second time I saw my jacket in action when I was having brunch outside at a Mexican restaurant.  I was wearing my jacket, and I was rearranging some dishes I accidently spilled salsa on the forearm part of my jacket.  I gasped as I had bought this coat only a week ago!  I quickly rushed to get paper towels to wipe in off.  Then I noticed something amazing.  The salsa just came off as I wiped it.  With a couple of wipes it was like the salsa was never there.   I was so amazed that I had to try it again-same result.  If salsa just rolls off it, rain doesn't stand a chance.  In fact, when someone says their coat is waterproof I often take my jacket out and have them pour salsa on it (it takes quite a bit of convincing) to show them how waterproof the jacket really is.  Then I offer to pour salsa on their "waterproof" jacket and of course they decline lacking the same confidence in their own jacket!

It's no wonder that Barbour is worn by the British Royal Family- it is the only apparel firm to have three royal warrants (Burberry only has two).  The thing is amazing for hunting/digging trenches in the rain or of course regular people like me who will be traveling to and from work on a rainy day.  The jacket is obviously perfect for the outdoors but looks great over a suit as well (it covers my entire suit jacket).  I like it better than a trench coat, as it is much lighter and more flexible and repels water as opposed to most trench coats that merely absorb the water (though you could get a wax cotton trench).

It was a bit pricey yes, but it has paid for it self several times over.  Cleaning is easy- you just stick it in cold water and hang it to dry.  (Do NOT dry clean, use soap, or a washing machine-that will actually ruin the jacket).  When the wax starts to wear out- you can either buy a can of Barbour Thornproof Dressing for $12 and re-wax it yourself (not recommended for city dwellers with no space) or just send it to the nearest Barbour store to get it done for a nominal fee (I paid around $30 for mine).  That's all the maintenence you need to last for generations!


So in summary:

Pros:
Great value to last for a lifetime
Waterproof to a whole new level
Lightweight and flexible for any occasion


Cons:
Wax smell
Price is high

Some say the wax might get on other things (bag, seats), but I 've never had this problem.  I think the wax is an acquired smell- I don't even notice it anymore.

It is expensive at $400 USD, but worth every penny.  If you're in America instead of buying in an American store near you can buy it online from a UK website (One is www.outdoorandcountry.co.uk).  Even with shipping, the exchange rate now will allow you to save around $100.  That's already 25% off.


GQ article here:
Link to GQ website detail Barbour and other "Built to last" items